For a while we did not know if we could hike the outstanding sections of the Rheinsteig or not. The Corona figures got worse and a restriction of movement, respectively prohibition of hotel overnight stays was on the brink of been put in place just before we left. We decided to stay for 5 continuous nights in Bad Honnef in the state of Nordrhein-Westfalen (North Rhine-Westphalia) right at the border to Rheinland-Pfalz (Rhineland-Palatinate). A seminar hotel had nicely reduced prices and as we learned later a fabulous breakfast buffet. It allowed to walk with a reduced weight in the backpack and helped at least my Lumbar Vertebras 5 & 6 😊
9 stages were left to walk. Knowing a bit but not all of what laid ahead of us, we went out and asked the Internet community, which of the remaining stages were within the best. From those lists and evaluations, we decided on the 6th best. The once going through or around cities or too far away from the Rhein dropped off our list. They also did touch the Roman Limes wall, but that we have close to home as well. No need just to walk through boring sections just for the fun of it. The Rhein valley and its views were our main incentives for the hike.
10.18 Sunday – 11. Stage (1/2), Niederlahnstein – Koblenz-Ehrenbreitstein
We again left by car from Stuttgart early at 07:00am and were at 10:10am at the parking of the Ehrenbreitstein train station. The Taxi that was required to get us to the start of our hike today needed to drive from the other side of the Rhein (Koblenz) get us. By the time it arrived we could have hiked to the Ruppertsklamm (Rupperts Ravine) https://www.ruppertsklamm.de/ . After we stopped the last time in Braubach, this was our choice to start the hike this time. It could not have started better. After having passed through the entry gate, it went without much delay into a steep and wild straight-line upward path (+ 140m in altitude). The water flow was light, and depth was shallow. Wet shoes could be avoided. As one had to walk on wet rock surfaces, iron ropes were in place to secure a few sections of the path. Once on top, the path widened and was quite pleasant to walk on. The woods we walked through were open, but it showed that we were further in the Autumn. Many more leaves than 10 days ago, from oak, beech, maple or other trees and bushes, that covered and guided the path. The ravine was clearly the main attraction of today’s stage. We also passed a few signs that indicated we should stay out of a military training ground. But we had no views of the Rhein.
By starting at the Ruppertsklamm we shortened stage 11 from around 20 to 12 km. It was a nice warming up hike after 10 days off the trail.
Once back down at the Rhein we followed it until we reached our car which took us in just about 1h to our Hotel for the next 5 nights at Bad Honnef. Dinner was taken at Weinhaus Steinbach https://www.weinhaus-steinbach.de/ . Due to Corona we opted for an outside table below wild wine grapes in their autumn color. Unfortunately, we were not dressed the best = warm. Two blankets and pillows were helping us to avoid at least shivering. Well the alcohol too. We were having an exceptionally smooth Riesling with our meals. Willy enjoyed his perfect Wiener Schnitzel and myself some Duck terrine and something called ÄÄD or “Himmel und Erde” https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himmel_und_Erde the traditional way. A Red would have better fit that meal, but …. . It was a good experience and we certainly enjoyed it.
The city itself is quite charming. The bombs of WWII must have been avoiding the place. Nice old villas and official buildings including the spas etc. were in good shape and nice to look at. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=bad+honnef&&view=detail&mid=49359A5802648D875D1949359A5802648D875D19&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dbad%2Bhonnef%26FORM%3DHDRSC3 It was also quite active and for a Sunday and Covid 19 situation many Restaurants were open. In the past it was a spa town profiting from the social security paid cures that many workers took advantage off. After a reform in the 80ths a new business model was needed. Today they have a lot of retirees that permanently live there. Also new hotels were built and turned the city into a seminar location. A problem in Corona times. Good for us because the hotel gave us really good prices. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bad_Honnef our Hotel Seminaris with 211 rooms had possibly only 20 or 30 rooms occupied – at the most https://www.seminaris.de/hotels/bad-honnef/seminaris-hotel-bad-honnef# .
10.19 Monday – 15. Stage, Leutesdorf – Rheinbrohl
Due to the Covid 19 situation, we had to decide yesterday at the check-in on a breakfast time. We choose 6:45 to be ahead of the crowds and be early on the hike. We were 5 or 6 for Breakfast during our time slot. I as usually could not resist the huge buffet. We took it easy and 45 minutes later we left for our rooms, got our backpacks, went to the car trunk to get our hiking boots and pick up our walking sticks. From the hotel to the train station it was only max. 15 minutes to walk. Once there, we purchased a return ticket to Leutesdorf and arrived in time, about 40 minutes later on time.
The signs, and the map on our smart phones showed us the way towards the Rhein and along it. Some quite interesting buildings lined up along the way leading to an historic gate where the historic flood levels were marked. From there as usually on this long-distance hike, it went up hill first. The rest of the day we went through two valleys. Quite steep and energy consuming up and down hills. But on the other side of the medal – again nice views. In the morning it was a bit chilly with 8C and views a bit milky. Later then it changed, and the mist and humidity were burned away by the sun. That should be the trend for the coming days we were told.
Being a Monday, the restaurants we passed were all closed. Lunch was taken in the middle of an uphill mind battle on a bench in one of the hairpin bends of the path. Once out of the mixed forest, the stage turned into an Art Gallery with exhibits along it. It passed through farmland where we had a nice viewpoint, saw some wild boar plowed areas and just as we came lower and closer to Rheinbrohl we passed a Memorial from WWI. From there we were in no time back down near the Rhein and train station. After a short wait, the train took us in 30 minutes back at Bad Honnef.
It was an interesting hike today that we both liked. The scenery changed a few times, the path challenging at times, but also nice to walk. The autumn colors were intense. We also saw insect hotels, as we call them. I guess the managed grassland with fruit trees, mainly apple trees that we passed, were the bee’s workplace 😊
Before we reached our rooms, we decided to return to the restaurant from yesterday for dinner. Food and wine were good again. Same wine as yesterday https://weingut-pieper.de/weinshop/weine/weissweine/2018er-riesling-ruedenet-trocken/ But before we left for the restaurant, we took 1:45h off to do our homework, relax, type notes etc. …….. Today we were sitting again outside. It is a big difference with better insulated clothing is used. I ate light – besides the desert ☹
10.20 Tuesday – 16. Stage (2/3), Rheinbrohl – Leubsdorf
Same procedure as yesterday. The difference was that we left the train already at Rheinbrohl. Train tickets became cheaper by the day 😉 Once we were on the track, were it went, as we were used to it already by now, straight up again.
The weather was different. It was windy, apparently, we had to expect some rain and it was quite cold at around 7°C. In general, the hike today was somewhat dull. The path got us away from the river and views were not exiting as on previous days. There were two quite steep and continuous uphill sections that did, besides the other little pains and aches, drain at least my energy. From the time it started drizzling, about 2h in the hike, my mind was on the finish in Leubsdorf. About 45 minutes ahead of the finish we had a short break, and I consumed the roll I prepared as every day. It helped and the steep downhill section on a soft dirt path was conquered without incident. Leubsdorf is a small place and none of the two known restaurants were open. As we learned after our arrival at the station, which was not more than a common platform for the two train directions, some lights and a concrete shelter with a metal bench, our wait would be 45 minutes for the train that eventually would stop. Sitting there I realized how many freight trains were going in both directions up and down the river. The Rhein with its train tracks on both sides is one of Europe’s most active. While sitting and waiting, we became active in cleaning the soles of our shoes. Some of the dirt accumulated was already dry ad hard as concrete. We did not want to take that dirt into our hotel nor walk on socks passed the reception. The train took us past the Remagen Bridge heads on the east side of the river. Anyone that saw the “Remagen Bridge” war movie? Well, we will walk tomorrow above the remains on our side and will have a look at the better kept bridge heads on the other river side. There they also have a museum dedicated to the special circumstances on this particular moment of WWII. https://www.thoughtco.com/world-war-ii-bridge-at-remagen-2361498#:~:text=%20World%20War%20II%3A%20The%20Bridge%20at%20Remagen,and%20his%20men%20began%20pressing%20forward%2C…%20More%20 https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=bridge+of+remagen&&view=detail&mid=2F195C0D92577E8459852F195C0D92577E845985&&FORM=VDRVRV
Until February 20. 2021 at the Mediathek on German TV in German https://www.ardmediathek.de/swr/video/bekannt-im-land/die-bruecke-von-remagen-wendepunkt-der-weltgeschichte/swr-rheinland-pfalz/Y3JpZDovL3N3ci5kZS9hZXgvbzEyMDYyMDk/
10.21 Wednesday – 17. Stage, Linz – Bad Honnef (along the Rhein)
We were told that it would be warm today, but the opposite was the case. In addition, it was raining when we left the hotel. In retrospect, today was an interesting hiking experience. Again, some steep up and downhill sections to overcome. At some points wire ropes would have been nice security features. We made it without incident. The path guided us again through open oak and beech forests. As we went through the last valley, we passed under a railroad bridge and heard later, respectively saw a painting, of a railbus at a house in Orsberg http://kasbachtalbahn.com/ . Once back up we passed through open fields but also paddocks, farmland and nice views especially at the Erpeler Ley https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erpeler_Ley . It is a mafic extrusive igneous rock that sits right at the edge of the Rhein. From there we also saw the bridge heats of the Remagen Bridge. It was the only functioning bridge over the Rhein in March 1945, that only collapsed after several 1000 US military men and equipment crossed the Rhein. One might also remember the movie about it. There is also a documentary available at the Mediathek of the „Zweite“ TV. It’s available there until end of January 2021. From up there we also had our first sights into the Siebengebirge https://www.siebengebirge.com . The “gebirge” in the word Siebengebirge has nothing to do with its translation into English = Mountain or for me something like the “Alps” or the “Rocky Mountains”. Some hills max altitude is 460m or 1510 feet and together a nature park. Nice to look at and hike. Mostly covered with forest.
As we came to Unkel https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unkel and as it was time for lunch, we choose a typical roadside fast food restaurant and drink hall, extended by a tent. It’s name was „Prost Mahlzeit“ https://m.facebook.com/ProstMahlzeitUnkel/?locale2=de_DE For me it was potato fritters with Salmon and Horseradish. Too many fritters, so after one fritter was gone with the salmon, I asked for some apple sauce to finish them off.
Unkel https://www.unkel-kulturstadt.de/unkel/Sehen%20&%20Gehen/Sehensw%C3%BCrdigkeiten/ has a nice base of historic wooden framed houses in it’s center. Also, nice villas along the Rhein and a nice allover atmosphere. We hiked along the Rhein from there until we reached Bad Honnef and our Hotel. By now, warm air that was pushed up from Spain between 2 low pressure areas, had reached us and dinner on a terrace n the middle of Bad Honnef was a pleasant one. I choose the specialty „Rheinischer Sauerbraten“ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sauerbraten Here they apparently used horse meat and called it “TrapTrap”.
10.22 Thursday – 16. Stage, Bad Honnef – Königswinter (back to Bad Honnef along the Rhein)
The rain was with us even though we have been told the night before, that the sun would be dominant. We started walking from our hotel straight up by about 280m in altitude and 1:15h later we reached the top with 345m altitude. We were walking through some of the hills that make up the Siebengebirge https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siebengebirge https://www.bonn-region.de/sehenswuerdigkeiten-kultur/siebengebirge.html . From there just one valley was to overcome. On the way we passed by the village Rhöndorf and it’s cemetery. It’s most prominent last resting place is the one from the first German Chancellor – Konrad Adenauer https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konrad_Adenauer . From there it went up gain passing the Ulanen Memorial (WWI) which is at the same time a view point https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulanendenkmal_(Rh%C3%B6ndorf) . From there further up to the Drachenfels with an altitude of 321m. https://www.dw.com/en/exploring-legendary-german-history-on-dragon-rock/a-2715873 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drachenfels_(Siebengebirge)
Once we had a look around, we rested at the restaurant and enjoyed a plate of lentil stew with a Bockwurst. By the time we were done, the wind and rain had been replaced by the forecasted sun and the rest of the day was quite pleasant. For the way down we could have walked but choose the historic cog railway. It stopped once at the Drachenburg Castle but we did not get off there https://www.schloss-drachenburg.de/index.php/en/ https://www.drachenfelsbahn.de/index.php/en After all, we were kind of in vacation mode, as we approach the end of our 3 x 5 days hike along the Rheinsteig.
From the base station, we walked through the City center of Königswinter until we hit the Rhein. From here we walked along it until we were back in Bad Honnef and our hotel. After a nap and a shower, we walked again to our by now #1 Restaurant Weinhaus Steinbach https://www.weinhaus-steinbach.de On the list of today’s special’s I chose the sour kidneys with mashed potatoes https://www.mygermantable.com/sour-kidneys-saure-nierle/ . Well prepared and with a few glasses of good Riesling. 2 glasses of Kölsch https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%B6lsch_(beer) followed at another location before returning to the hotel.
10.23 Friday – visiting Bonn, an old friend and driving back home
Even though we had no need to leave early we met again at 06:45 for breakfast. Last night we already set up our plan.
- We drove to our old capital Bonn, stopped close to the old Bundestag (Parliament – now a UN Departments home) and walked a great round around the parks and buildings. The last photo of this trip was taken at the monument (a bust) of the later Konrad Adenauer whose last resting place we just passed yesterday.
- Visit an ALDI to search for a special offer on wines from Bierzo (a region in the North of Spain that I like https://bierzolife.com/?lang=en ) We did not find it and went on.
- A reunion was arranged with an old friend, whose daughter lives just north of Bonn. A cup of coffee and a nice chat later, we now finally started driving towards home. It took us west to and south on A61. We left the Autobahn again in search for wine. This time successfully. At the same time, we opted for a plate of Kebab at a fast-food location along the road before hitting the Highway again. Being a Friday, the motorway was busy, but we made good time and by past 6pm I dropped Willy off at home.
The Rheinsteig hike is worth to remember. We saw it all. From wine slopes, castles for functions or as winery, with cellar door operations or as restaurants or all in one. The more elegant food selection was available during our first 5-day hike starting from Wiesbaden. Wines, I have to say, always good and better than I expected. Still a little too much on the soft or sweet side. The word dry means not everywhere the same. During our second 5-day hike until Braubach the views, landscapes in general, then wine and last food were the highlights. During the last 5-day hike from Koblenz to Königswinter we could have dropped another section and would not have felt we missed something. All in all, this 15-day hike was a genuinely nice experience that we can only recommend. Could we have spent more time? Absolutely! Eltville would be a place to see. Lots of museums,…… I might return one day by car to stop at a few more places and museums for which we did not care this time. The commuter trains that run along the Rhein every 30 or 60 minutes make communication along the Rhein easy and partly very economical. There is one thing I must mention. The train stations along the Rhein, at the small villages, are a disgrace. They are boarded up or just used as urinals or else. The stops are required for the villages, but if it does not pay to support an old train station, use it differently or break it down and just have a ticket vending machine and some cover or seat options for the older or travelers in general 😤.
One more thing that came to mind while trying to find English websites. I could again as so often, hardly find English language tourist web sites whose links I could integrate. Only very few were available. I guess those folks do not look for foreign non-German speaking tourists. How ignorant cane one be 😏 Not, that some of those villages, could not need some tourist €s
During our hike we already discussed our plans for 2021. The Mosel long distance bicycle trail from Metz to Koblenz is our top choice. If Corona still does not allow us to travel and ride safe in France, we might have to choose a German bike trail or go North.
We are thinking about bike riding instead of hiking now more often, as both of us feel age is creeping up our bones and joints. Riding bike is fun too. Willy and I had a nice bike ride experience when we, just beyond 30 years old, rode from Stuttgart to Schaffhausen over the Swabian Alb and along the Rhein after the lake of Konstanz. I did then also some tours with the boys that included the crossing of the Alps. Willy did some serious bike riding for several years. We will find out if the other side of the body will still hurt after long cycling hours. But it is truer than ever. If at our age one does not try, one might really never know 😂
ks63 